Since man discovered tools with which to hunt, build and meticulously remove facial hair, going relatively brow-less has been a globe-spanning phenomenon. The ancient Egyptians were all forehead, using green or black pigment to redraw brows. The double brow-a thin, straight plucked line of natural hair with a second line drawn underneath it-was the rage in Byzantine times. And during the Heian era in Japan, brows were often plucked out completely and replaced by black thumbprints.

Neck ruffs and curly orange wigs weren’t the only eccentricities Queen Elizabeth popularized. In an effort to mimic Her Majesty, women of the court plucked their hairlines to accentuate their foreheads and removed, dyed, or concealed their brows with white powder. When fuller styles came back into vogue during Baroque times, mouse skins were used to replace brows that could no longer grow due to the culture of over-plucking.

Trend of thin eyebrow: Greta Garbo was one of the few silent film stars to make it in the new medium of the talkies, but she never lost the tweezed, curving arches that she used to such expressive effect in silent hits like Flesh and the Devil and The Mysterious Lady. Mysterious indeed!

Going Natural: With Marlene Dietrich on movie screens, the 1930’s were all about tweezed brows penciled in with exaggerated height using grease-paint sticks. But some, of course, refused to accept the trend. Frida Kahlo, lft, immortalized the uni-brow by keeping her arches bushy and connected in the middle.

Working Girl: The big careers, big shoulder pads, and big hair of the eighties meant equally larger-than-life brows. Brooke Shields may be all about lashed these days (she’s Latisse spokesperson), but she was the original poster child for the full arch.

Clean Shaven: Supermodels like Cindy Crawford brought big brows into the nineties, although edgier looks-courtesy of the burgeoning grunge movement-quickly gained favor. When Kristen McMenamy shaved her arches, her modeling career took off.

Peroxide Blonde: On the advice of Paris Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld, model Lara Stone brought the bleached brow into the new millennium and snatched up countless major editorials as a result.

Drama Queen: Pat McGrath revived the no-brow look at Balenciaga and Prada’s Fall 2009 shows. “It’s both retro and futuristic and allows for countless possibilities for different makeup looks,” McGrath says. “Dramatic makeup is in, and versatility is the key to creativity.”

Light Brigade: McGrath’s handiwork became a bona fide trend for Spring 2010 when it popped up at big shows like Givenchy. “Riccardo Tisci wanted something neutral yet tough and strong-looking, and bleached brows were the smartest way to achieve that,” explains makeup artist Aaron De Mey. He agrees that it’s best to consult a professional if you’re looking to make runway a reality, but admits that over-the-counter bleach formulation can also be useful. ”Jolen is gentle on the skin,” he says. “Just apply it to a clean brow with a Q-tip and check regularly to see if it has achieved the shade your desire.”

Frame of Mine: If you’re not ready to go sans brows for spring, fuller styles are also having a moment. Makeup artist Diane Kendal championed the look at both Alexander Wang and Chole. “Eyebrows define and frame the face,” says Kendal. “They are a great way to give an edge to a natural look,” she adds, pointing out that when you take them away, you need to rely on more makeup to achieve a similar result.

Shape Shifters: To keep brows kempt an full, Kendal frequently turns to the pencil for all of her shaping needs. “They’re best for following the natural line of the brow,” she says.